HANG TEN
(part three of the Hawaii Chronicles)
(part three of the Hawaii Chronicles)
Sorry for the delay but yesterday was just the CRAZIEST day at work. Now, on to the fourth day of our vacation, Wednesday. We were still a bit on eastern time so once again, we woke up early and headed to the beach. The mission - to learn to surf. It was beginning to look like a beautiful day, even if the water was a bit chilly. We headed over to the lesson/rental stand and forked over our $70. We were directed to a jovial guy they called Fats. Our "class" consisted of us, two brothers from Canada and two guys from France. Of course jezchill insisted on telling them of my love of all things French and said that I wanted to practice my French. Uh, you can't practice what you don't know. I was praying they wouldn't actually start speaking French to me. Two years of high school French did NOT serve me well, as evidenced during my last trip to Paris. Shortly thereafter, we got down to business. We spent about five minutes on the boards on the sand learning how to stand up and off into the water we went.
As I paddled out into the surf, I was wishing I hadn’t failed to go to the gym for the past two months. Going AGAINST the waves was a bit taxing on my arms. Fats told me how to get into position and told me to wait for his commands. I was a little bit nervous. The water wasn’t too deep but I didn’t have a life vest on. I was the first one in the class to go so everyone would see my success, or my failure. My mind was racing and then I heard, Paddle! I started swimming with all my might and then I hard, Up!. In an instant, I popped up onto my knees, moved my left foot forward, shifted my weight and then,,,I WAS SURFING! Yeah baby! Woohoo! It was almost just like I’d imagined except the only people cheering for me were those in my class and Fats. The people on the shore couldn’t have cared less. I rode the massive (okay, maybe not massive, it was only three feet high) wave all the way to the shore. I jumped off the board into the water, forgetting all the rocks and coral beneath the surface. I scraped my knee but I barely felt the pain due to the adrenaline rush. That moment was definitely the high point of the week. Unfortunately, not long after came the low point.
off to do some work – to be continued…check back in a few hours
As I paddled out into the surf, I was wishing I hadn’t failed to go to the gym for the past two months. Going AGAINST the waves was a bit taxing on my arms. Fats told me how to get into position and told me to wait for his commands. I was a little bit nervous. The water wasn’t too deep but I didn’t have a life vest on. I was the first one in the class to go so everyone would see my success, or my failure. My mind was racing and then I heard, Paddle! I started swimming with all my might and then I hard, Up!. In an instant, I popped up onto my knees, moved my left foot forward, shifted my weight and then,,,I WAS SURFING! Yeah baby! Woohoo! It was almost just like I’d imagined except the only people cheering for me were those in my class and Fats. The people on the shore couldn’t have cared less. I rode the massive (okay, maybe not massive, it was only three feet high) wave all the way to the shore. I jumped off the board into the water, forgetting all the rocks and coral beneath the surface. I scraped my knee but I barely felt the pain due to the adrenaline rush. That moment was definitely the high point of the week. Unfortunately, not long after came the low point.
off to do some work – to be continued…check back in a few hours
posted by GeckoGirl @ 11:06 AM
